
I got into Intensive Japanese 400! “But Jeff, what does that mean?” “What happened to writing about life in Japan?” “Did I leave the oven on?” you’re quietly saying to yourself. Let’s rewind, because I’ve actually been here for ten days despite this being the first post (the host family has no internet and access here is surprisingly lacking; more on that later).
I touched down in Nagoya on September 2 after a 13-hour flight from Detroit (for total flight time, tack on another 2 hours to get from Philadelphia to Detroit) during which I intermittently slept and caught pieces of Spider Man 3, Shrek 3 and The Ex (the latter being the only film I cared to see in the first place). The entire time I was thinking about the placement test I had to take at Nanzan. Truth be told, I hadn’t studied as much as I wanted over the summer. Needless to say I was a bit worried; Japanese isn’t necessarily natural like, say, breathing.
Nevertheless I soldiered on, studying between naps, and soon enough we were beginning our descent into the Nagoya area. I was seated next to a woman en route to Manila (I believe) with her young daughter, who slept most of the way. As the mother pulled up the shade a bit, I noticed something very intriguing: windmills. “Green power,” I thought. “It DOES exist!” Given the recent resistance to windmills off the coast of New England in America, I was surprised to see them in Japan, and thought perhaps the whole country was moving in the direction of renewable energy.
Well, I’m almost half right. Those may be the only windmills in Japan for all I know, and a lot of people have cars, though the vast majority are small. What’s missing in windmills, however, is compensated by a TON of bikes. Everywhere I go, there is at least one person on a bike. On the rare occasion I don’t see someone riding a bike, there is evidence of bike use when I pass any one of a number of parking areas specifically for bikes. Depending on the area, it’s not unusual to have great difficulty finding a space for your bike if you haven’t arrived early in the day. When I travel to the subway station each morning, I pass an army of high and middle school students biking to class. As the roads in my neck of the woods are narrow, this creates a problem for drivers, who sometimes have to wait for opposing traffic to pass so they can use the other side of the road to get by. Even with all the driving, however, I haven’t seen a huge number of overweight Japanese (though I have seen a few—thanks, McDonald’s).
For those with doubts, yes the Japanese drive on the left side of the road. And yes, it’s a major adjustment to ride on the left side of the street. Several times I have had to correct myself, and thankfully no cars were flying around the bend at the time—and they sure do fly. My host mother graciously lends me her bike to get to and from the subway station each morning. I have repeatedly double-checked to make sure this is O.K. (all the host-family-tip materials warned me not to be a “cultural child” that thinks “Wow, they treat you like royalty!” when they’re actually making major lifestyle changes to accommodate you), as she doesn’t use the car very much. She insists it’s all right; she usually takes the public buses or walks—she doesn’t like using the car because it’s bad for the air. How’s that thought process coming along in America?
As I said before, riding on the left side of the road comes with a learning curve. Especially when it’s not your bike, and the bike you’re riding was built for someone roughly a foot smaller than you. Fortunately the seat adjusts to a reasonable height, but a tiny bike is a tiny bike. I’m getting used to it though, and it has handy baskets on the front and back with room enough for my camera bag and backpack respectively. So, on to an actual description of the host family and life in Japan.
For the fall semester, I’m living with Shogo and Satoko Shimozawa. They’re 76 and 70, respectively. (For anyone unfamiliar with Japanese names, Shogo’s the husband.) Shogo’s hobbies include golf, travel, and painting. Satoko’s hobbies include travel, flower arranging (ikebana, pronounced e-kay-bana), and ceramic arts. Sounds pretty “meh,” right? Well take into consideration that pretty much every plate or dish we use for eating or serving at any given meal was made by Satoko. Many of the paintings in the house are Shogo’s work. An entire hutch of ceramic figurines and teapots (save for a fishing Santa-esque figure from a trip to Minnesota) were also made by Satoko. It’s staggering. This hutch, for instance, is nearly bursting with ceramics:

That hutch is only a portion of Satoko’s work.
While I’m at it, I’ve got some more pictures of the house:

This is a picture of the genkan, of which the closest American equivalent is the foyer. Except in the foyer, it’s rare that you must take off your shoes. It’s the first thing you see when you enter the house (assuming you’re not a solicitor or other stranger whom would be kept outside at the gate).

This is a 180-degree turn from where I took the dining room picture. The Shimozawas frequently turn on the news during dinner (though they rarely watch it on that beauty of a TV), and the hutch on the right contains all the ceramic figurines Satoko made.

This is just outside the door to my room. Hanging on the wall is a piece of Shogo’s handiwork, with a few golf trophies on the shelf. Every Sunday Shogo watches golf on TV.

Kore wa watashi no heya desu. This is my room, as seen from just inside the door. I actually have a bed! Though the pillow is definitely made for back sleepers and the mattress is a bit stiff, I haven’t had any trouble sleeping thanks to long days around town and at Nanzan.

Another view of my heya (room). Yeah, the TV has cable, although I haven’t watched much in order to keep electricity bills down. I just know I’d get sucked into some random Japanese show and stay up until the wee hours.
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